I know the best brownies are baked from scratch and it’s easy enough to do, but I use a mix. With that confession behind me, let’s turn to today’s brownie mix proliferation. Every supermarket displays a tantalizing variety of brownie mixes: dark chocolate, walnut, caramel, chocolate chip, chocolate chunk, cheesecake, peanut butter, and more. All three major mix makers now have a gourmet brownie line, which costs about a buck more per box (in the $3 range) than the regular “family style” mixes, and includes a pouch of syrup to enrich the mix.
Which box is best? I tested the fudgiest brownie from each of the big three, and two other readily available mixes. I actually have some qualifications for the task, having worked as an editor of The Chocolate News while in college. For this taste test, I enlisted the help of friends, family, and a ravenous Girl Scout troop.
Pillsbury Fudge Supreme Double Chocolate Brownies
The most cake-like fudge brownie we tasted, with the mildest flavor. The Girl Scouts called it spongy, fluffy, and mushy. Most of the adults found it blah.
Betty Crocker Supreme Ultimate Fudge Brownies
What happened here, Betty? This brownie was so dense, even fudge fanatics didn’t like it. It is plenty chocolatey, but the flavor failed to atone for its brick-like consistency. I made this one twice to give it a fair chance, but all the brownies could break windows.
Duncan Hines Double Fudge Chocolate Lover’s Brownies
This was the overwhelming children’s favorite—perfect fudgey texture, nice shine, rich flavor. The “chocolatiest,” said one Girl Scout. “Just right,” said another. It looks good and tastes better.
Ghirardelli Chocolate Syrup Brownies
Another winner, this is the only mix we tested with chocolate liquor as well as cocoa in the syrup. When cooled and hardened, chocolate liquor forms baking chocolate. The other mix makers use cocoa only and call their syrup “chocolate flavored” or “fudge syrup.” Ghirardelli had great texture and by far the most intense, true chocolate taste; almost all the adults and some of the children preferred it.
No Pudge Original Fudge Brownies
I admit I was pulling for this fat-free brownie, widely distributed across the country. It comes in an ugly pink box with a picture of a pig wearing a tape measure around its waist and an endearing note from its founder. The ingredients list is virtuously brief, with unbleached wheat flour and none of the soy bean or cottonseed oils the others have. You make No Pudge with yogurt rather than oil and egg. Alas, fat-free brownies have not been perfected. The children called it “blecch,” and “horrible.” The adults found it “sour” and “chemical tasting.” It was the only brownie with leftovers after our test. However, one of my adult friends did like it, so No Pudge may merit a cautious taste.
No Pudge cost a fat $3.99 for 13.7 ounces of mix at my local supermarket, much higher than the other gourmet brownies, but it was only $2.29 at Trader Joe’s.
