For the majority of the twentieth century, America’s acquaintance with olive oil didn’t come from the dinner table, it came from Popeye. It wasn’t until the 60s and 70s with a growth of natural foods, health-conscious consuming, and an internationally-traveled population, that we started to forget Olive Oyl—Popeye’s girlfriend—and started to embrace the green, fragrant liquid that had already been used for centuries by Mediterranean countries. Finally, we started to see olive oil not just as side product of spoiled table olives, but as a good in its own right.
In Northern California, where the climate mimics that of other wine- and olive-growing regions like Spain and Italy, the popularity of olive oil is as visible as it is gustatory. The light green leaves and grey rustic branches carrying small orbs of fruit now grow in yards, flock sides of roads, and are happily interspersed among vineyards. Though California has, by far, the most orchards in the United States, Texas, New Mexico, Georgia and a few other states with hospitable climates are starting to grow and produce.
Still, many of us aren’t sure how to use the oil or what the difference is between the various types—or what all the fuss is about.
Harvest Time
Late October and November rings in the olive harvest, when the small green fruits of the Olea eurpaea tree ripen to their point of perfection. Like wine grapes, the timing of the harvest is critical. High-end olive oil producers don’t want to pick them too soon, which means hard fruit with a high concentration of bitter oils. If they pick too late, it can result in too many reddish green or black olives, which have lost some of their fresh, light flavors. Because olives start to oxidize and increase in acidity immediately after they are picked, they must be processed soon after. Most high-end olive oils are pressed within twenty-four hours of coming off the tree.
Only Extra Virgin
Even though all olives may be harvested in a similar way, not all oil is created equal, something you’ve probably already discerned from the wide-ranging price points of olive oils.
- Extra virgin is the top-notch oil; it is made using mechanical (not chemical) extractions. Sometimes labeled “cold pressed” or “cold processed,” this denotes that there is no heat used during extraction, which can lead to alteration in the oil. Extra virgin must have a free acidity of no more than 0.8 grams per 100 grams. The flavors also must be aromatic and bold.
- Virgin olive oil also has not been refined in any way and has no more than two grams of acidity per 100 grams of oil.
- Olive oils without the virgin designation may be made with physical and or chemical means. They generally have less flavor than virgin olive oils. “Light” olive oil doesn’t have anything to with calories; it refers to flavor.
Dip, Sip, and Buy
The best way to truly get a sense of the subtle nuances of a good olive oil is to try it plain or on a simple piece of bread. It’s here where you can detect the mouth feel, which can be light or heavy, and the flavors, which can range from peppery to fruity.
Just as in wine tasting, the taste is subjective. While connoisseurs try to point out notes of avocado, nuts, or apples, all I can usually pick up is, well, olive flavor. However, if you do a side-by-side tasting of good oils, you definitely get better at picking up flavors. There’s no denying the spicy bite or the grassy aromas of pungent oils.
One would think that, like beer, the darker the color the more intense the flavor of an oil. However, this isn’t always the case. Light yellow oils can have intense flavors while dark greens might be milder.
Higher cost doesn’t necessarily mean higher quality, though buying from small batch, locally-produced orchards is usually a great way to ensure high flavor and authenticity. Some of the larger, imported brands have been found guilty of imposters—using cheap vegetable oils in place of some, or all, of the oil.
