For the majority of the twentieth century, America’s acquaintance with olive oil didn’t come from the dinner table, it came from Popeye. It wasn’t until the 60s and 70s with a growth of natural foods, health-conscious consuming, and an internationally-traveled population, that we started to forget Olive Oyl—Popeye’s girlfriend—and started to embrace the green, fragrant liquid that had already been used for centuries by Mediterranean countries. Finally, we started to see olive oil not just as side product of spoiled table olives, but as a good in its own right.
In Northern California, where the climate mimics that of other wine- and olive-growing regions like Spain and Italy, the popularity of olive oil is as visible as it is gustatory. The light green leaves and grey rustic branches carrying small orbs of fruit now grow in yards, flock sides of roads, and are happily interspersed among vineyards. Though California has, by far, the most orchards in the United States, Texas, New Mexico, Georgia and a few other states with hospitable climates are starting to grow and produce.
Still, many of us aren’t sure how to use the oil or what the difference is between the various types—or what all the fuss is about.
Harvest Time
Late October and November rings in the olive harvest, when the small green fruits of the Olea eurpaea tree ripen to their point of perfection. Like wine grapes, the timing of the harvest is critical. High-end olive oil producers don’t want to pick them too soon, which means hard fruit with a high concentration of bitter oils. If they pick too late, it can result in too many reddish green or black olives, which have lost some of their fresh, light flavors. Because olives start to oxidize and increase in acidity immediately after they are picked, they must be processed soon after. Most high-end olive oils are pressed within twenty-four hours of coming off the tree.
Only Extra Virgin
Even though all olives may be harvested in a similar way, not all oil is created equal, something you’ve probably already discerned from the wide-ranging price points of olive oils.
