“Just try to relax,” said the doctor as he covered my eyes with thick adhesive pads, blocking out all ambient light. As my world went dark and I heard him starting up the machine, my heart fluttered with anticipation. I was about to try a radical skincare procedure that, I hoped, would revolutionize my complexion. No, it wasn’t Botox or a glycolic-acid peel—it was called intense pulsed light (IPL), and if you’re sick of paying hundreds of dollars for frills-filled facials that result in little more than the draining of your bank account as the lavender-scented steam dissipates, it just might become your new best friend.
What Is IPL?
Also known as photorejuvenation, IPL treats the skin of the face, neck, décolletage, arms, hands, back, or legs with a series of pulses of broad-spectrum infrared light, transmitted by specialized handheld lasers. As the technician moves the device across the skin’s surface, each pulse produces a flash of bright red light and a brief beeping sound. The actual procedure typically takes about fifteen minutes; the treatment provider may apply a topical anesthetic to numb the skin slightly fifteen minutes beforehand.
IPL’s primary purpose is to combat the sometimes dramatic visible toll that sun damage, hyperpigmentation, melasma (aka “the mask of pregnancy”), rosacea, broken capillaries, enlarged pores, and spider veins take on the skin as it ages. As the laser passes over the skin’s surface, areas with more pigment, as well as the blood in visible vessels, absorb the light and thereby trigger the skin’s “purging” response. Initially, those problem spots become even more noticeable, but over the course of a week or two following the procedure, as the epidermis sheds its outermost layers, it sloughs off the damaged cells, producing more even skin tone and increased luminosity in successful cases. Most IPL providers recommend three or more treatments to realize the benefits fully.
Who Can Try It?
Because IPL is noninvasive, has a low risk of side effects, and requires virtually no downtime, many patients will encounter no serious hindrances to undergoing the procedure. However, if you are dark-complected or suffer from pronounced melasma, if your skin is extra-sensitive, if you have a low pain threshold overall, IPL may not be advisable. In the case of darker skin types or extremely melasma-prone skin, because the laser’s purpose is to draw forth pigmentation, it may actually produce the opposite of the desired effect: hypopigmentation, or overlightening of the skin. For sensitive skin types, the physical sensations the pulses of light cause may simply be too uncomfortable; while the majority of patients experience a generally tolerable sting with each pulse, followed by a sunburnlike feeling that persists for a few hours after treatment, others have reported prolonged swelling, redness, and irritation. If you are concerned about these side effects but would still like to undergo IPL, talk with the technician in advance about keeping the machine on its lowest setting during treatment.
What Can You Do to Prepare and Heal?
Three days before IPL, suspend your use of any skincare product containing retinoids, which increase skin’s photosensitivity. Likewise, abstain from taking Tetracycline or any other sun-sensitizing drug for three days preprocedure, as well as from taking aspirin, which can increase the risk of bruising, for ten days. Avoid sun exposure entirely, if possible; many providers will refuse you service if you have any degree of suntan or burn. Finally, if you have a history of herpes, be sure to take antiviral medication the day before, the day of, and the day after your procedure.
Following IPL, your skin will be hypersensitive to sunlight, so you should avoid prolonged sun exposure for four weeks in order to ensure that pigmentation does not reassert itself aggressively. If you must be outdoors in full sunlight, wear a hat and broad-spectrum sunscreen at all times. Use only mild cleansers and moisturizers for one week; after that, you may resume your full facial regimen. During this time, you’ll likely notice the emergence of dark spots resembling coffee grounds sprinkled across the area that was treated; if so, do not attempt to exfoliate them with vigorous scrubbing or abrasive products—simply be patient and allow the skin to expel them naturally.
