Most of the cliché’s about Texas are true. Everything is bigger and the fiercely proud people are friendlier. Out of four days in Brenham and environs – midway between Houston and Austin—my friend, Judy and I encounter nary a rude, rushed person. Everyone has a ready smile and a willingness to shoot the breeze, provide directions or offer to lead us to our destination, whether it’s Washington-on-the-Brazos—the birthplace of the Republic—or the George Herbert Walker Bush Library on the Texas A&M campus.
In Washington County, there are no skyscrapers, no man-made pollution, no crowded city streets and no noise, unless you consider the nostalgic whistle of a train or the mooing of cattle that out number citizens two to one. Instead of five-star hotels, Brenham boasts more than forty unique accommodations ranging from rough and tough dude ranches to more dainty Victorian bed and breakfasts where the décor and food rival city slicker hotels. And there is plenty to do. Or time to just chill out and watch the bluebonnets bloom in spring.
Life at Texas Life Ranch
As a matter of fact, we do both at Texas Life Ranch where attorneys Taunia and John Elick roll out the welcome mat at their 1,600-acre bed & breakfast, recently named one of Frommer’s Top 10 in Texas. We’re excited about taking a novice horse back ride, but the weather doesn’t cooperate. Texas-sized raindrops keep falling on our heads that also negates the coyote and raccoon adventure.
For solace, we wangle an invitation to join a corporate group and eat our way through a Texas barbecue spread extraordinaire consisting of pulled beef, pork ribs, corn casserole, fresh greens, homemade potato salad and coleslaw—all made from homegrown ingredients. At Taunia’s urging, I save room for my first ever taste of buttermilk pie, a Texas Life Ranch specialty. Judy samples the chocolate pecan pie and we trade bites. Both are indescribably delicious.
Our accommodations in the 1869 House—one of eight restored buildings on the ranch—may have mid-1800s décor, but the Jacuzzis are very twenty-first century. Like many of the others structures, it was scheduled for demolition before Taunia rescued it from the bulldozer. She confesses to a not-so-secret addiction to saving historic homes with the same fervor other women collect Manolo Blahnik shoes. The worse condition their condition, the more appealing to Taunia. To date, she’s acquired and restored twenty-three—and counting. Most live on various properties owned by the couple.
Brenham and environs
What Washington County lacks in population—around 32,000—it makes up in charm and history, our prime focus this trip. On the second day, we head to Washington-on-the Brazos where Independence Hall, the Barrington Living History Center, and the Star of Texas Museum bring history to life. Ironically, leaders of the territory signed the Declaration of Independence from Mexico on this property while 200 greatly outnumbered Texas settlers made a final stand against the army of General Antonio López de Santa Anna at the ill-fated Alamo in San Antonio.
Feeling hunger pangs, we ask three native Texans for lunch recommendations. Like an echo, each names, R Place, known for owner Randy Roger’s famous Texas barbecue. They warn us that though the place may look a tad tacky, the food is so legendary that Houstonians happily make the 1.5-hour ride on a regular basis. “Ask Randy to tell you the drive-in story,” one advises.
We love the small weathered building with its tin roof and neon sign/glass bottle/tin can décor on sight. And Roger’s cooking lives up to its reputation. When he comes around to say hello to customers, we ask about the drive-in. He quips, “I never knew I had a drive-thru restaurant until someone up and drove right through it!” He shrugged off the bizarre accident that nearly destroyed the place good-naturedly and is pleased that it only heightened the popularity of his establishment.
