The velvety marshlands that Sidney Lanier described so lyrically have drawn me to Georgia’s Golden Isles ever since I was introduced to the area ten years ago. Each mile from Atlanta to Brunswick, Georgia, makes me yearn for the white sand beaches and glorious sunsets at the end of the journey. Upon reaching Brunswick, the sight of soft shades of lime green moss juxtaposed with dark blue waterways always sets my heart a’pattering as we cross over the causeways and bridges connecting St. Simons, Sea, Jekyll, and Little St. Simons.
Once again, the meandering drive down Kings Way leading into the heart of St. Simons transported me to a time and place where gracious living is a way of life. My friend and travel companion Judy Giles, a first-time Golden Isles visitor, was agog at the ancient live oaks decorated with lacy Spanish moss that formed a canopy over our heads. Like sentinels, they shield elegant homes from curious eyes as lush palm fronds cover their feet. Nearby, sapling oaks wear wisps of moss resembling peach fuzz on young men’s chests.
The Road Less Traveled
Our destination the following day was the Lodge on Little St. Simons, a private island that snuggles shrimp-like around the northern end of St. Simons. Virtually untouched for centuries, the 10,000-acre barrier island is known for its pristine beaches, maritime forest, tidal creeks and lush marshes. It has become a haven for bird watchers, environmentalists, and city dwellers longing for an escape from the demands of modern life.
As we skimmed over the Hampton River and veered onto Mosquito Creek aboard the Little St. Simons (LSS) water taxi—the only way to reach the island—a swift sea breeze propelled us on our way and gulls circled overhead.
In minutes, we docked and headed for the rustic Hunting Lodge outdoor gear are prominently displayed aside handsome island buck that decorate the rough-hewn walls like a three-dimensional wallpaper border. At this resort, we would find no workout room or chocolate on our pillows. Instead, we would embrace the opportunity to experience nature—albeit in extremely comfortable accommodations.
Since its construction in 1917, the Hunting Lodge has been a gathering place for guests who warm themselves beside the cozy stacked-brick fireplace, enjoy a pint of ale on tap and the family-style meals. Drinks and snacks, including ale, are available twenty-four hours a day.
“It’s like being a guest in someone’s house,” says second-time visitor Sue Kirk of North Tonawanda, N.Y. “It’s one of the aspects we like best.” Sue and husband Travis also enjoy the extraordinary Southern hospitality of the attentive staff.
Island History
Once home to Indians, Spaniards and West African slaves, ownership of the island eventually fell to Frances Butler Leigh whose family held large parcels of land in the area. In 1907, the Eagle Pencil Company purchased it to harvest the abundance of Southern Redcedar (Juniperus silicicola) When the timber proved unsuitable for pencil-making because of its continuous exposure to wind and salt, Eagle executive Philip Berolzheimer bought the island as a private retreat for his family and friends, vowing never to allow it to fall into developers’ hands.
Subsequent generations of Berolzheimers held the island in the same high esteem. Through the years they fought off would-be usurpers, including Glynn County that wanted to develop the island as a public beach and park in 1947. The family was saved a lengthy legal court battle when voters defeated the bond issue, citing the excessive cost of improvements to make the island accessible to the public. As a result, the barrier island remains one of only a few unspoiled maritime forests in the nation.
Always a haven for the Berolzheimer’s family and friends, LSS was opened as an exclusive resort for thirty guests in 1980. It is accessible between 10:30 a.m. and 4:30 p.m., affording guests comfortable lodging, three sumptuous meals a day, and free run of the untouched wilderness. All meals and amenities are included in the room rate. There are five upscale rustic guest cottages plus two additional private rooms in the Hunting Lodge. Each of the individual cottages contains two to four bedrooms with a bath for each and central living space. Guests are encouraged to try their hand at horseback riding, canoeing, kayaking, hiking, biking, fishing, and swimming in the Junior Olympic pool.
