St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands is no longer one of the best kept secrets in the Caribbean, but because it’s a national park, it still remains pretty unspoiled. My family traveled to Cinnamon Bay for many years, so I decided to return with my boyfriend. Suddenly it felt like a romantic travel destination!
Landing in St. Thomas
There is something unforgettable about getting off the plane in the Virgin Islands. Maybe it’s the humid air mixed with rain on the tarmac, island flowers, and the heady feeling of white beaches and knowing that you’re leaving the grey dreariness of winter on the East Coast far, far behind. In the 1990s, the airport, which had been an old World War II hanger, was updated. But some things never change: we were promptly given a free rum punch. Now that’s hospitality!
We caught a cab from the airport into Charlotte Amalie, the main port, where we waited to board the forty-five-minute ferry to Cruz Bay in St. John. You can also take the Red Hook ferry, which is shorter, but less scenic. Once on St. John, we took a rather bumpy but very fun cab ride up a steep narrow drive, overlooking stunning turquoise bays with lush green vistas. We would rent a jeep later on.
Cinnamon Bay
At the campground you can rent a cottage or green canvas tent (I don’t recommend either) or opt for a bare site (which we did). We brought along our own tent and air mattress, as the canvas tents are old, stuffy, and rather musty. Also, the donkeys, spiders, and snails on the island seem more drawn to the canvas tents for some reason!
We spent the first day snorkeling at Cinnamon, where we saw angel fish, a large fifteen-foot sting ray (which we stayed far away from), and dramatic corals. What was once just a pavilion now has a laid-back restaurant and bar (t-shirts allowed) called the Lizard Tree. The service is super slow, but after a day of this, you tend to acclimate. Visitors come to play cards, Scrabble, listen to live bands, or relax under the fans. The small camp store is open until 8 p.m. and tends to run out of many things, but they always have ice and beer, so who can complain?
Finding an Eco-Resort
It rained today, so we ventured to Drunk Bay on the other side of the island to check out an eco-resort. Estate Concordia is nestled atop a hillside that is an extreme shade of emerald green, resembling Ireland for a split second, except for the turquoise waters of course. We stopped at Miss Lucy’s—my favorite place for lunch—to sample the crunchy fish sandwich, Caesar salad, and coladas, then explored Chocolate Hole and the surrounding areas. We strolled around Cruz Bay, taking in Mongoose Junction, which sold everything from fine jewelry to t-shirts. (We bought t-shirts.)
On the way home, we sought out a secluded beach. We stopped at Denis Bay (you’ll know it because there are four parking spaces off Rt. 20). I think it’s as beautiful as the renowned Honeymoon Beach. Later we returned to Cruz Bay to the Lime Inn, which has the freshest seafood on the island in my opinion. I had the swordfish with Wasabi mayo and steamed shrimp. The key lime pie is to die for.
Snorkeling at Salt Pond
The next day we moved campsites. Although we had a sandy plot about 200 feet from the beach, it was too close to the bathroom and lacked privacy. You need to reserve close to a year ahead, but it’s not possible to reserve particular sites. I find that the campground is always open to moving sites though.
It was pouring rain, so we drove to Salt Pond Bay, which is often sunnier. Here we took a half-mile walk down to a quiet, beautiful little beach with excellent snorkeling. My boyfriend snorkeled while I read a novel on the beach. On the way back, we returned to Miss Lucy’s for a quick snack and a Lime in a Coconut drink. The goats out back chased each other while we watched the sun start to set.
