When the first cold wind blows, so does my temptation to buy new coats, boots, gloves, and hats. A good coat—or two, or three—is something you’ll wear every day, and is thus the backbone of a winter wardrobe. But finding one that’s fashionable and warm can set you back upward of $400. And then there’s the dilemma of what type of coat to buy—a puffy down number that’s practical and appropriate for impromptu sledding trips? Or a tailored wool coat that looks great for the office or a night out? And what if I want something a bit more fun for special occasions, like a tweed duffle coat or a bright pink A-line coat?
Buying vintage can be the solution to getting quality and variety at the right price.
My first vintage coat was a ’70s-era camel-colored pea coat with a rip in the lining that I bought at the Salvation Army when I was sixteen. It was fantastic and lasted me five years, retiring to the local secondhand shop not because it was worn out, but only because I had too many coats and needed to purge. I was hooked at that first purchase and immediately bought three more coats for under $100 total. It felt truly luxurious to own a coat for every occasion, and I hadn’t even completely blown my babysitting money.
Occasionally, a designer vintage item—say, a 1956 Dior ermine cape—can cost much more than a quality piece made today. But in general, buying previously worn means buying quality at a discount. The care that was taken with making clothing in the past is largely replaced my machine and assembly-line work now. You rarely find hand-stitched embroidery or carved wooden buttons nowadays. A new coat for under $100 might start falling apart after a season, whereas you can buy a vintage coat that’ll last a lifetime for the same price.
With vintage, there’s little danger you’ll be unoriginal. Vintage clothing is usually unique. My first round of vintage coat purchases included a bright red wool swing coat with black braided trim. It was something I’d imagine Anna Karenina to wear. (I looked in vain for a black muff.) It was a head-turner, and ever since, vintage shops are my destination of choice when I want an item no one else has.
Buying vintage is more environmentally responsible than buying new clothes made from fibers grown with pesticides, from fossil-fueled synthetics, or with sweatshop labor. Buying a vintage fur, on the other hand, is a morally ambiguous decision, but if you just must have fur, vintage is undoubtedly more PC than newly shorn.
