There are a million books out there that instruct readers in the fine art of wine tasting.  These run the gamut from technical manuals for professional sommeliers, to introductory books offering beginners a how-to, Wine-for-Dummies approach. Hip Tastes by Courtney Cochran belongs to the latter category, striving to make the complex concepts and techniques behind wine tasting easily accessible even to readers having no previous experience whatsoever with drinking wine. At the same time, with her frequent usage of the word “hip,” the author implies a degree of sophistication and subtle understanding already extant in her audience. So we begin with a conundrum.

I think Cochran, for the most part, succeeds in reconciling her two contradictory impulses. Her information and understanding of her craft (she’s a professional sommelier) are solid, her language is easy to read, and her train of thought is easy to follow. The book probably won’t make you a sophisticated wine taster filled with subtle understanding of the art, but it’s very readable. The average beginning wine taster should finish this book having gained a good grasp of some basic concepts. Even oenophiles may learn some interesting new facts or little-known bits of history.

There are many things to like about this book as an introductory guide. Ultimately, Cochran doesn’t completely reject the traditional lexicon of wine tasting—e.g., “chewy tannins”—but explains terms with clarity. Cochran’s explanation of terroir is simply one of the best I’ve ever read, in addition to being beautifully clear, simple, and vibrant. Her championing of personal preference as “the most critical factor” in tasting, and her definition of wine tasting as “a subjective thing,” is the major element that makes me like this book, since satisfying one’s personal taste is ultimately what enjoying wine is all about.

Cochran’s explanation of the differences between Old World and New World wines and their naming systems is excellent, as is her passage on the effect of degree of toast in wine barrels. I appreciate her defense of rosé wine. Her chapter on champagne and other effervescent wines, and the following chapter on sweet wines are simple, clear, and comprehensive in explaining complex subjects. The description and categorization of Madeira are concise yet thorough. I like her consideration of wine pairings that include sushi and burgers—wine was created as liquid accompaniment for food, and more of us eat sushi and burgers than haute cuisine. Cochran’s demystification of the process of decanting is well done; and I agree completely with her commonsense, diplomatic approach to wine ratings—take them with “a grain of salt,” refer to more than one critic, and pay attention when the majority recommends a wine.