In a state whose capital city has no road access and is accessible only by boat or plane, visitors soon learn that part of the fun of an Alaska vacation is getting from one place to the next. Boarding our Era Aviation flight in Anchorage to Kodiak was a pleasant blast-from-the-friendly-skies-past: Simple (no security, free luggage), hospitable (gate agents greeted regulars like family) and even enjoyable (boasting amble legroom and comfortable seats). Yes, really.
Kodiak is home to the world’s largest bears—the Kodiak brown bear—along with 200 species of birds, Sitka Blacktail deer, Dall sheep, bald eagles, sea lions, sea otters, whales, and more. In addition, the island boasts a rich Alutiiq Native heritage, with 8,000 years of history and culture. Sights worth a visit include the Baranov Museum and Russian Orthodox Church. We explored the island with Memory Maker Tour & Guide Service. Owner Dake Schmidt offers a variety of day trips catered to your specific interest, be it history, birding, photography, or fishing.
Tipple samples of locally brewed beer at the Kodiak Island Brewing Company. This island institution serves up some tasty organic ales, ambers, and stouts that keep the locals coming back for more (Literally. KIBC brews are sold in-house only). And don’t miss the beer that put them on the map in the lower forty-eight—the Sarah Pale Ale, with a buxom depiction of the infamous former governor and the cheeky moniker “You Betcha It’s Good.” Too fun.
Good microbrew aside, the highlight of our Kodiak visit was a stay at the Kodiak Raspberry Island Remote Lodge. Second generation owners Birch and Tiffany Robbins extended the kind of warm welcome and gracious hospitality that reminded us why we crave remote places. Remote? Yes. The lodge is nearly twenty miles from the nearest community. Roughing it? Not much. The lodge boasts private guest cabins with indoor bathrooms, delicious catch-of-the-day Alaskan seafood, complimentary beer and wine, hydroelectric power, hot tub and sauna and wireless internet. Not to worry though, you won’t forget you’re in the middle of the Last Frontier when Alaska wildness saturates every minute of your stay. The lodge is only accessible by boat or floatplane, but once you settle in, you can hike, sea kayak, fish, or go whale watching or bear viewing.
Sage RobbinsI can always tell when we stumble upon someplace special by the number of times I find myself telling the same story to everyone and anyone who makes the fatal mistake of asking ‘how was your trip?” In this instance it was Birch and Tiffany’s young family—daughter, Sage, age three, and son, Fischer, age five—who were the stars of my storytelling. And can you blame me? There are few places on this planet, after all, where curious three-year-old girls can explore the exotic world of their backyard wilderness chaperoned by two black labs? Or where, for example, a boy of five can tell you—the out-of-their-element tourist—that their marine radio frequency is channel 88 and call name, Iron Creek, or remind said tourist not to be standing downwind if/when you use bear spray. Seeing the freedom and intelligence of the Robbins family was enough to send me home wanting more.
For more information on Kodiak Island, visit the Kodiak Island Official Visitor’s Guide website.
Originally published on Ellen Barone
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