People call Paris the city of lights, the city of romance, “gai Paree.” No one calls it the bang-for-your-buck city, the city of reasonable rates, or “cheap Paree.” However, it is possible to enjoy the lights, romance, and gaiety of Paris without stripping your bank account down to its proverbial French knickers.
From Charles de Gaulle airport, take Paris’ excellent underground system, the Metro, into the city. The Metro is a fun and easy option for traveling around Paris. Buy a carnet, a book of ten tickets for one-way travel, at any Metro station, at a reduced price.
Though hotels in Paris are plentiful, they are often expensive. My favorite Web site for finding hotel deals is hotelclub.com, but also check parishotels.com and lastminute.com. One reasonably priced hotel is the Hôtel Mayet. Hôtel Mayet’s rooms are small but the minimalist modern décor is a nice break from toile. While some prefer to stay closer to the action, in The Marais or St Germain, I prefer a quiet street with easy Metro access. There’s a Metro station around the corner from the Hôtel Mayet and the famous French department store, Le Bon Marche is a short walk. If you’re traveling on a budget, I don’t recommend spending too much time at the venerable department store, but do consider a visit to their food shop, where you can stock up on lavish treats for a picnic beneath the Eiffel Tower, in the Jardin de Tuilleries or any of the many lovely parks around Paris.
The French are known to have a way with food and travelers and locals are spoiled with choices in Paris. But it’s easy to find yourself having to pay more than expected for even the simplest of meals. Most restaurants will add a cover charge to your bill. Make sure to take this into account if opting to sit down for a quick drink or snack. I have a simple rule: if a restaurant’s menu is displayed outside in English, German, and Spanish, I don’t go in as they often overcharge. I usually choose to have the menu complet or prix fixe menu, which includes two or three courses for a set price. Ordering a la carte will usually be much more expensive. Service, or a tip, is usually included but it’s nice to leave a little something extra if you were pleased with the service and food. Look for the abbreviation S.C. on your bill, which means service compris (or service included). One of the pleasures of Paris is wandering the streets and coming across a charming bistro or café. Here are a few inexpensive options to get you started:
Aux Artists (65 Rue Falguiere, Near Metro Pasteur) is a haunting little restaurant with good quality food and an interesting atmosphere. It’s quite busy, but perfect for a late night dinner.
Petit Prince (12 Rue Lanneau, Metro Maubert Mutualite) is in a wonderful location and has very good food for the price.
Julien (16 Rue de Faubourg St Denis, Metro Strabourg Saint Denis) is a bustling brasserie tucked away in a colorful neighborhood. It’s a bit more expensive but the food is outstanding.
Paris is also famous for fabulous museums, packed with famed paintings and sculpture you’ve seen all your life in books and pictures. Don’t miss an opportunity to gaze into Mona Lisa’s eyes, muse over Mondrian’s modular meaning, or dip your toe into Monet’s Water Lilies. Visit museums on the first Sunday of the month if you can, when many are free of charge. Depending on your interest and availability, consider buying a Paris Museum Pass, which includes sixty museums and is available in two, four, or six day increments. Check Web sites to ensure opening times haven’t changed for the following sights:
The Louvre is the ultimate museum full of breathtaking pieces, including the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo. Admission is free on the first Sunday of every month. Hours: 9 am to 6 pm every day except Tuesday and holidays. Open until 9:45 pm on Wednesdays and Fridays.
