With the dollar continuing its slide in value against the euro, a trip to Italy not only has become less palatable—for many it is now out of reach. Fret not. La Dolce Vita can be sampled in our own backyard with a visit to North Beach, San Francisco’s own “Little Italy.”
North Beach is considered the heart and soul of San Francisco. It is one of the few neighborhoods in San Francisco to retain its original charm, thanks to strict zoning that locks out large chain stores and eateries in favor of mom and pop shops. And, while English is the first language, it is just as common to hear Italian spoken.
More reasons to make North Beach a destination: Famous landmarks include Coit Tower, Lombard Street (the “world’s crookedest” street), Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral, and views of the Transamerica Building and Alcatraz Island.
Sitting between Chinatown and Fisherman’s Wharf, Telegraph and Russian Hills, North Beach bucks stereotypes of “The Foggy City” by often being bathed in sunshine. Restaurants and cafés line the streets, most offering outside seating when the weather permits. Shops offer up everything from Italian ceramics and Murano Glass to lingerie, clothing, jewelry, and shoes.
So, save your euros for a future trip ... and stay closer to home for the flavor of Italy, North Beach style.
North Beach—Latte to Last Call
MANGIA
7:00 a.m.
Victoria Pastry Co.
1362 Stockton Street
Start your day early at Victoria Pastry, perched on a corner just off of Columbus Street. Established in 1914, this shrine to baked dolce is a destination for locals and visitors alike. The typical Italian breakfast is rich in carbohydrates—most often bread with jams or pastry—always with espresso or other version of coffee.
Most notable to start the day is Sfogliatella, a tender puff pastry filled with sweetened ricotta cheese. If you have access to refrigeration, you might also want to pick up their Zucotto for a late night treat. Zucotto is a signature frozen dessert for Victoria, made of sponge cake soaked in blended rums and cherry liquor, layered with whipped cream, chocolate custard, chopped amoretti and dusted with roasted hazelnuts.
By midday, many of their most popular items are sold out, so an early start is a must. Ask for your Sfogliatella and espresso to go, and make your way north to Washington Square Park for breakfast alfresco.
SEE
7:30 a.m.
Shanzi—Iron Fan Martial Arts
Washington Square Park
Washington Square Park—recently voted one of America’s greatest public spaces—hosts events and festivals year-round. The park also provides ample grass for sun seekers and sports, park benches for musicians and more.
In the early hours, the park is filled with many from the Chinese community who gather to begin their day with synchronized exercise. The Chinese population has a large presence in North Beach as Chinatown borders the southern edge. Groups form in different pockets to practice tai chi, dance, calisthenics, and, the most visual, Iron Fan Martial Arts. This last group can be found many mornings at 7:30 a.m. in the far northwest corner, brandishing bright red fans.
The iron fan, called Shanzi in Chinese, is normally constructed of metal with up to ten rods that collapse and open as guided by the user. One version has spiked rod tips, creating a more threatening—if not deadly—weapon. At the park, you will find paper fans in use. With a quick flick of the wrist, the fans are opened and closed, swished through the air in dance-like movements. The large span of the fans, the bright color, and the synchronicity of the movements is a beautiful introduction to this ancient form of martial arts.
SEE
9:30 a.m.
San Francisco Art Institute
800 Chestnut Street
Continue heading north on the main arterial street, Columbus Avenue, to Chestnut Street. Head west and up Russian Hill until you reach the San Francisco Art Institute. Established in 1871, it is the oldest school of art west of the Mississippi and has been at its present location on Russian Hill since 1926. Many of the world’s leading artists have been associated with the Institute, whether as students or faculty.
