The Well Rounded Woman … Goes on Safari

As a long-time Discovery Channel devotee, the Well Rounded Woman has often dreamt about going into the wild and seeing exotic creatures in their native habitats—ideally without sacrificing any of her own creature comforts. It’s difficult to say where this desire sprang from. I’d like to think she was moved by the heroic endeavors of women like Dian Fossey and Jane Goodall; though it was, more likely, the animal attraction she felt for Tarzan in her pre-pubescent years. In any event, she is finally ready to channel her inner adventurer, don a pith helmet, and hit the trail …

Into Africa
Isolated camps are now commonplace on Africa’s southern safari circuit. Yet few are as stylish as Nxabega, a private 17,300-acre wildlife concession that borders Botswana’s fabled Okavango Delta. The area is rife with zebras, lions, cheetahs, and hippos. And Nxabega’s unique location lets the Well Rounded Woman see them from many different vantage points. She can, for instance, indulge her fauna fantasies by poling through papyrus-edged channels in a traditional mokoro canoe, taking a naturalist-led bush walk, or hopping into a Land Rover for an adrenaline-fueled game drive.

Of course, simply sleeping here seems like an adventure thanks to nine classic tents classy enough to make Out of Africa author Karen Blixen blush. All boast en-suite bathrooms and elevated porches, so the comfort quotient is high. Better yet, the decor (think kudu-covered headboards, white linens, ostrich egg chandeliers, and hide rugs) strikes just the right balance between taste and testosterone. The thatched main lodge, housing a restful bar, a library, and a dining room that specializes in Pan-African cuisine, is equally enticing. All-inclusive rates start at $770 per night for two guests sharing.

A Passage to India
When she has a burning desire to see Bengal tigers (or leopards or gazelles or hyenas or crocs …) our intrepid animal lover prefers to visit Aman-i-Khás: an ultra-lux wilderness resort in southeast Rajasthan on the edge of Ranthambhore National Park. Once a Maharajah’s private hunting ground, the park still reports India’s most frequent tiger sightings and open four-wheel drive expeditions into it run twice daily. The camel safaris organized around the park sound tempting, too. But truth be told the Well Rounded Woman can see where some wild things are without ever leaving camp.

After all, Aman-i-Khás’ canvas accommodations overlook a watering hole (Mother Nature’s version of a giant birdbath) and their individual verandahs essentially double as avian-viewing platforms. Inside, these minimalist Moghul-inspired tents are notable for comfy king-size beds and extra-long tubs built for soaking. As if lounging in one or the other wasn’t enough reason for her to come, Aman-i-Khás also has its own tented spa where our massage-loving maven can indulge in age-old treatments that utilize indigenous ingredients. All-inclusive rates are $1240 per night for two guests sharing.

Home on the Range
Surely you have noticed (as the Well Rounded Woman herself has) that while animals may roam free, watching them can cost a pretty penny. So when it is necessary to fudge a bit for the sake of frugality, she opts for a wildlife park back at home. An increasing number of them currently offer themed experiences not far from the standard tourist track. For example, in California alone, she can bed down at Vision Quest Ranch’s Safari B&B near Monterey (from $225 double) or join one of the Roar & Snore sleepovers hosted by the San Diego Zoo’s Wild Animal Park (from $278 double).

Safari West, outside Santa Rosa, is another affordable alternative. Though the 400-acre preserve and safari-style camp actually sits on the “Sonoma Serengeti,” it feels like it is a continent away from Wine Country. The authentic-looking raised tents (each sporting its own game viewing deck) were imported from Africa. And most of the property’s 400 or so wild creatures originated there too: among them wandering warthogs, giraffes, cape buffalo, and scimitar-horned oryx. Lodgings start at $230 a night for two guests sharing. Meals, assorted tours, and a “Keeper of the Day” program are available at extra charge.

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