The first one I had was in Calle Rasse, a small backstreet behind San Marco; a rainy day, the acqua alta threatening our ankles, we took refuge in one of those narrow sandwich bars the Italians do so well. We had no idea that life was about to change. But it did.
I have been back to this place every visit since and the quality is maintained. I have cheated on this, my first hot chocolate love, by dating a couple of others in Piazza San Marco itself but have only been disappointed. Once I tried the Caffe Florian. They’ve been making hot chocolate since 1720 so they should have it down to a fine art. And if it wasn’t for the Calle Rasse experience, I probably would have been impressed. Then I tried crossing the square to Quadri, but it was a similar experience. And eating or drinking anything on the Piazza San Marco is going to be a costly exercise: we’re talking a 10 euro hot chocolate as opposed to 4 euros in Calle Rasse. Besides, can anything really match the perfection of your first love?
What I Love About London, EnglandHigh tea at The Ritz Hotel. Elegant, calm in the midst of crazy London dirt and traffic. Established as a tradition during the Victorian era, high tea in London is not cheap, but then you won’t need dinner afterwards, so it’s totally practical: an elegant room, pages of tea choices, and three-tiered towers of delicate sandwiches, scones with cream and jam, and little cakes—yum.
There are other high teas in London, but the Ritz has the history; it’s also the only one I’ve been to so I can’t bear witness to any others. (Editor’s note: also try high tea at the Grosvenor House.) And the Ritz on Piccadilly is just one of those must-have London experiences. High tea is served in the elegant Palm Court, which is all columns and chandeliers and has a dress code that bans jeans and trainers; it really feels like London as it once was—or still is if you have money, a title, or are Madonna. You do need to book well ahead if possible—they recommend six weeks—unless of course you are moneyed, titled, or Madonna.
A couple of quickies to finish with: In Prague, have a Budweiser beer—a completely different flavour to the Bud in the rest of the world. In Bratislava, try Becherovka, a kind of herb-based liquor. Delicious but can prove potent. You were warned. In Zagreb, try the Paprenjak, pepper flavored biscuits. Sublime. Also the Bajadera chocolates made by local company Kras. Mmmm. And finally, a second bite at Istanbul: Fish in bread with onions, served directly from boats tied to the dock just under the Galata Bridge. Locals everywhere squatting on low, no frills plastic chairs. Cheap, delicious, authentic. Do it.
By Philippa Burne
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