Historical Kona Heritage Corridor
When the Kona Coast becomes too hot and humid upon torrid afternoons, or post-littoral torpor sets in from sunbathing overindulgence at the beach, visitors of the Big Island Kona side should take a cue from locals and head up-country for the fresh, cool afternoon air. The Old Road, a 12-mile long remnant of the Mamalahoa Highway, runs through a beautiful slice of Old Hawaii; coffee farms, fruit orchards, historical buildings, small towns, and an old sugar mill grace the sunny slopes of Hualalai Volcano here.
Mauka, or Up-Country, Kona as this area is called, was once the beating financial heart of Hawaii Island—along this road were built the first newspaper press, bottling company, and telephone exchange on Hawaii. Today, the road runs through the artist enclave of Holualoa, famed for its art galleries and coffeehouses. Sweeping views of the Kona coastline, the upper slopes of Hualalai Volcano, and even Maui on fog-free days make this road a trip a not to be missed treat. Let’s take a quick tour of the section of the Kona Heritage Corridor that runs along Highway 180 from its intersection with Highway 190 north through Holualoa, past the intersection with Highway 19, and into the town of Kainaliu. Part 1 of this article discusses Upcountry Kona in the Holualoa area; Part 2 covers the Kainaliu Area.
Part 1: Kainaliu Area
M. Onizuka Store
Starting at the intersection of the Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy 180) and Highway 190 (Palani Road) and heading approximately South on the Mamalahoa Highway, one passes through tropical to temperate rainforest and comes to the verge of the cloud forest that soften the upper slopes of Hualalai Volcano. At about the 7-mile maker one passes the old M. Onizuka Store, the boyhood home of Astronaut Elisson Onizuka, who died in the Challenger space shuttle disaster.
The M. Onizuka Store was founded in 1933 by Masamitsu Onizuka in 1933, who provided the residents of his community with general merchandise and means of transporting their purchases through the store’s one-man taxi service. Following her husband’s death, Mitsue Nagata Onizuka continued to run the store until the day she died in 1990.
“May Peace On Earth Prevail” proclaims the post outside the residence where Elisson Onizuka, who had the honor of being the first astronaut of Japanese-American descent, grew up. History buffs are invited to explore Hawaii’s rich involvement in man’s exploration of space at the Onizuka Space Museum at Kona International Airport.
K. Komo Store
Boasting but a few necessary concessions to the march of time, the charming comfort of the family store of yesteryear lives on in the form of the K. Komo Store. Gasoline, sundries, and good conversation are always available at this for real slice of “Old Hawaii.” Serving the people of Keopu since the early 1900s, and operated by the third generation of Komo family, K. Komo Store still grows, roasts, brews, and sells their own brand of coffee. The store is registered on the National Register of Historic Places.
Holualoa Town
With a name that means “the long sled track,” its position at the apex of Kona coffee country, and its modern day eclectic profusion of art galleries, schools, and studios, it’s easy to see that Holualoa, once the bustling center of North Kona commerce, has been through some changes in the past 200 years.
Initially, Hawaiians grew taro and sweet potato in small family farm plots called kuleana around Holualoa. It is interesting to note that today the word kuleana in Hawaiian pidgin has taken on the meaning of “personal responsibility.” In any case, early in the nineteenth century, Japanese, Portuguese, and Chinese immigrants settled here and began planting large fields of oranges, breadfruit, coffee, and cotton, among other crops. A large sisal plantation for making ropes for sailing vessels was located just northwest of Holualoa. Today, now-wild sisal plants, looking a bit alien with their tall, single stalk of blossoms, can be seen in profusion along Palani Road between Kailua and Kealekehe.
