Dispelling a Hairstorical Myth

My contribution for African American History Month is to set the record straight about the straightening comb.

As many of you already know, I am no fan of the daunting steel-tooth instrument brandished by my mother whenever it was time to tame my ever-defiant head of hair.

But my hot comb hang up hasn’t tainted my preference for fact over fiction. Even though many people still want to believe that the straightening comb was invented by Madame C.J. Walker, the black entrepreneur, it was not.

I repeat, it was not.

Madame Walker, who invented popular hair products, popularized the straightening comb when she started using it with the products as part of a hair care regimen that she practiced and advised.

I asked my friend and colleague A’Leila Bundles to weigh in on this. A’Leila is author of On Her Own Ground: The Life and Times of Madam C. J. Walker. She also happens to be Madame Walker’s great-great granddaughter.

A’Leila says that Madame Walker was still a washerwoman in St. Louis named Sarah Breedlove when ads for straightening combs, also known as hot combs, appeared in Bloomingdales and Sears catalogues in the 1890s. She didn’t start using the hot comb herself until around 1906.

“The fact that Madam Walker developed an international enterprise, that she provided jobs to help thousands of women become financially independent, that she was a political activist, and that she was a philanthropist is much more interesting than a connection to the hot comb,” A’Leila said.

A’Leila, who gives countless speeches and interviews, still runs into people who would rather believe the hype.

“I feel like I’m playing whack-a-mole,” she says. “Some people want to believe this myth because it fits into their notion of finding a ‘villain’ for why black women straighten their hair and some people want to believe it because they’re really glad someone invented an implement to help straighten hair. I just try to be as gracious as I can and let them know accurate information.”

So who is the real inventor of the straightening comb?

I cannot find a source that knows exactly who, but a Parisian named Marcel Grateau (a.k.a. Francois Marcel) comes close to being a likely suspect. In the late 1800s, Grateau started using heated rods or tongs to straighten hair. In 1872, he created a wavy style that became known as the Marcel Wave. Just like Madame Walker made millions selling her hair products used in combination with the hot comb, Grateau made a fortune using heated instruments that created his popular wave.

Now that I’ve done my part in placing the straightening comb in the right hairstorical light, I will resume my position as one who still despises the bloody thing for burning my scalp without cause!

Photo courtesy of NaturallyCurly

6 readers liked this story.
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06.30.2009
meme johns
I couldn't wait to do away with the hot comb.Burns after burn.Oil sizzling, scalp scorched.The smell of burn paper towel folded in half.And the holding my ear to my hand darn near fell off. I always enjoyed getting french braids more.Especially with the beads.I remember when I was eleven my hair grew to be a least a foot or more long. I couldn't wait to get a perm.At that time everyone was wearing the Farrah Fawcett flip aka the feather.The reason I wanted the perm so bad really ,was so my mother would stop burning my ear.But my fonder memories were the braids .The sounds those beads made when I would jump rope.It was like my own symphony.
03.15.2009
geri
Many thanks to the author for passing along this information! The Marcel comb was used to create all those cool waves the ladies of the day had in their hair(hair gel was not invented yet). Caucasian women were using Marcel combs for almost 40 years before Madam Walker popularized it among Black women. Straightening combs aren't the problem, it's the person using it! Too much heat/pressing oil makes the hair limp and greasy, and for a long time, that was it. I(like the author) had a once a week date with the pressing comb(and have some ear burns to prove it<lol>)as a little girl. It had to last at least a week(two if it didn't rain or snow a lot). I loved it because I got to spend alone time with my Aunt Mary(RIP), so while it was smoky, sizzling and hot(hotcombs and August don't mix!), the memories are bittersweet.
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