“Oh, I usually work about twelve to fourteen, sometimes fifteen hour days.”
“Every day?”
“Five or six, then on my off days, I am usually on the phone for about four hours making sure things are in order, and sometimes I get so worried that I come down here (to the commissary) anyway.”
Despite the grueling hours, Kelly, forty-one years old, looks remarkably boyish. He has bright red hair, bright green eyes, and is quick to smile. He described his metabolism as being like that of a hummingbird, and the quickness with which he moved and the slimness of his build were evidence of that. I could tell by his friendly kitchen demeanor that he was not one of those chefs who barks orders at his underlings, à la Gordon Ramsey, but he did stress the importance of making sure the food is prepared and served correctly.
Kelly has been with the Wine Train for fourteen years, the last six as executive chef. He was voted the 2003 and 2004 People’s Choice Chef at the Napa Valley Mustard Festival, a regional celebration of food, wine, art, and mustard (both flowers and condiment).
Kelly continued our tour by leading us through the train. Since we had spent most of the previous day in the Vista Dome car, he showed us the through the eight other cars and accompanying kitchens, explaining the differences in cuisine and ambiance. In the Silverado Grill car, dining is casual and people can order à la carte; a large smoker is used to roast pork for pulled pork sandwiches. The Gourmet Express lunches are a little more sophisticated, something along the lines of beef tenderloin encrusted with herbs, roasted, and placed on a three-potato onion sauté with Cambozola crouton in an herb veal demi-glace.
Our lunch, which was part of the Champagne Vista Dome Vintner’s Luncheon, was Smoked Pork and Butter Lettuce Tacos with Queso Fresca paired with a Tulocay Pinot Noir; Heirloom Tomato Gratin with Valley Quail Confit paired with a 2002 Tulocay Syrah; Grilled Hanger Steak on a Portobello Mushroom in Cabernet Shallot Duxelles paired with a 2002 Tulocay Cabernet Sauvignon; and for dessert, a Mascarpone and Berry Parfait.
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