I remember the first time I tasted gelato—I was a study abroad student living in Rome, and it was a sweltering August day. I don’t recall what I tasted first—the dark chocolate, the rich hazlenut, the overall creamy cold sweetness, but I’m pretty sure my knees buckled. I think I knew that day, that early in my semester abroad, it was going to be difficult to come home.
Luckily for me, Italian enclaves in U.S. metropolises have brought a little slice (or a whole pie) of the old country to American shores. If an Italy vacation (or relocation!), isn’t in the budget this year, consider seeking out an Italian stronghold right here at home …
South Philadelphia
Mariella Giovannucci Esposito, co-owner of Fante’s Kitchen Wares shop, has been a resident of South Philadelphia for the past twenty-four years. Originally from Italy’s Friuli region, she told me how the neighborhood has maintained many traditions from her home country, particularly the southern region. “I like the Italian Market Festival in May; it’s always a big hoopla. There’s a procession with the saints down Ninth Street, many churches bring their saint statues out, and people pin money on the Blessed Mother to ask for favors. There’s a lot of food, and people come for the porchetta—the entire pig, cooked whole, with the head on, then carved up to make sandwiches. Many people come specifically for a porchetta sandwich. People have brought over their traditions, whether focused on food or religion or both.”
Visitors don’t need to visit during the festival, however, to get an authentic experience. The historic Italian Market’s open-air booths have stretched down Ninth Street for more than one hundred years, and today feature not just Italian vendors, but also Mexican, Vietnamese, Korean, and other ethnic specialties. (Of course, there are cheesesteaks, too.) And it’s open year-round, whatever the weather.
“People who like food and cook[ing] will enjoy this neighborhood,” says Esposito. “You can find things here you won’t see at any supermarket. The Spice Corner has spices from around the world. The must-see bakery is Termini at Eighth and Dickinson; it’s very authentic and it still has the old fixtures and great food. The cheese stands have excellent cheeses—big cheeses hanging everywhere—and fresh mozzarella, made right there.” On my last visit to the market, I purchased salami and extra-virgin olive oil, and enjoyed a strong cappucino, all as delicious as those I’d find back in Italy.
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