Cow Pie in the Sky: Stories from the Land of Cheese

Cow dung, manure, compost, muck, fertilizer, droppings—and my favorite—cow pie. This is what my friend Marysia warned we would be facing if we braved La Desalpe festival in St. Cergue … cow dirt galore!

Once a year, the cows (and their herdsmen) dress up and march down from their summer home in the mountains to their winter resting spot at lower altitudes. The cows spend the summer grazing in Alpine pastures and then make the journey to their fall pastures at warmer temperatures. These cows have the life! Summering at a scenic home in the Alps and then retreating to warmer winter digs … who wouldn’t like that? But, I’m not actually sure what happens to them in the winter. Gulp. It could be curtains for the cows. I try not to think about it.

Brad and I set out to see the cows in all their glory with our feet clad in muck-proof boots and Addi safely tucked in a snug backpack. We caught the “little red train”—seriously, that’s what it is called—up to St. Cergue early on a Saturday morning. The train (red indeed) took its time winding through vineyards, fields ready to be harvested, and quaint mountain towns, before arriving at the small St. Cergue train station nestled in the Jura Mountains.

The Swiss sun greeted us as we stepped on to the platform. We were herded along with the crowd—our own cow experience—to the festival that was already in full swing. Booths selling Swiss paraphernalia, from cowbells to the festival’s own wine, lined the street.

We arrived just in time to see a small ensemble of Alpine horn players—you know, the ones in the Ricola commercials—stride by in traditional dress followed by teams of Bernese Mountain Dogs. Jackpot! Horn players (Riiii-cooooo-laaaaaaa! Bummmmmmmmmm!) and Bernese Mountain Dogs in their own parade? And, let me remind you that our dog, Tycho—the only member of the family with a Swiss passport—is a Bernese Mountain Dog. There were about twenty “Tychos” prancing around a cul-de-sac in festive gear. Our own Tycho was sitting festive-gearless at home, denied of his moment of pomp.