“When they put it on, it’s pretty set. You don’t have to really force the hair or keep washing your hands,” says Grant, who recommends Kerastase wax and Goldwell shine wax.
Redken stylist Giovanni Giuntoli also prefers wax products for his male curly clients that complain about big, puffy hair.
“Wax allows the curls to straighten some and it’s heavy enough for the control factor,” says Giuntoli, who also runs editorial styling courses for artists at Yourtearsheets. “But best of all, the curls can still be touched and slightly restyled if needed for an evening style.”
Giuntoli usually recommends Hardwear Gel by Redken for locked-in shine and maximum hold, or a strong wax like Redken’s Electric Wax for a pliable hold.
When it comes to waxes, Dana Kaplan of M Salon in Cambridge, Massachusetts recommends men check out Bumble & Bumble’s Sumo Wax.
“You have to emulsify it in your hands, it gives a nice shine and washes out very easily,” says Kaplan, who points out that most men are confused about what products to use. “A lot of men like crunch. They want something that will hold from now until doomsday! Usually, I recommend a pomade or a strong gel. Very few men want styling cream, but a lot of men like pomade for the shine.”
He also stresses the importance of wetting the hair in the morning, whether you wash it or not. And when you reach for a product, Kaplan says don’t go “really crazy” with it. Men tend to use too much product, and the last thing you want is to look greasy or dripping wet.
“Use a minimal amount and it’ll work because they come in all strengths,” Kaplan explains. “I always say start with a dime’s worth of product and you can add on by dime’s worth. That’s how to figure out how much you need. And once you put the product in, try not to touch it until it’s dry.”
The hands-off rule is one that Jonathan Torch of Toronto’s Curly Hair Institute says must be explained, sometimes over and over, especially to male clients with curly hair.
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