Mascara Quest

By: Christine Lennon (View Profile)

It was a going to be a smokey-eye kind of night. I had that feeling. So I broke out the liner and the lash curler, the shimmering charcoal shadow and the Blackest Black/Noir/Jet/Ebony/Onyx mascara. I applied the kohl liner and set it with powder shadow like the pros say, wiped the wand to avoid clumps and applied three, count ‘em, three coats. At the party later, the martinis were dry, and so were my eyes. By midnight, it was my right eye that turned into a round, puffy pumpkin, but both were so itchy, red and allergic I might as well have been wearing cat fur earmuffs.

I don’t know if I have a technical, legitimate mascara allergy, but it sure seems like it. After a trip to the doctor for some antibiotic drops, I dumped all of my eye makeup (apparently contaminated with bacteria) and started from scratch. That’s when my mascara quest began in earnest.

Mascara appears to be the simplest of all cosmetics to get right, but the apparent sameness among brands is deceptive. The only real variables are the shape and design of the brush, whether the package promises thicker or longer lashes, the black or brown/black shade, and its ability to hold its own in a water balloon fight. What the package won’t tell you is whether the black gunk will break off into tiny, razor-sharp fibers that irritate sensitive eyes, which has happened to me whether I spent $7.99 or $27.99 on the product.

Read any magazine, and the pros are split down the middle on the price issue. Half of them praise the drugstore brands, saying that you buy it so frequently (they should be thrown away after six weeks of using them, for contamination issues) that it’s not worth the splurge, and cheaper brands are as effective are pricier ones. Others say that the advanced formulas and high-tech applicator brushes of higher end brands ensure that lashes are lush, flexible, fiber-free, and miles longer.

Here’s what I’ve discovered: The products that say “soft” or “flexible” (regardless of price) are generally fiber-free, designed so that lashes can be touched or rubbed without shattering into tiny flakes. The skinnier brushes are easier to handle for hard-to-reach lashes, even though the chubbier brush (what the beauty industry has called a “teddy bear” brush) looks more appealing. Although I’m a big fan of organic skin care and cosmetics, when it comes to eye makeup, I want the super-sterile chemical-crazy kind.

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posted: 01.20.2008
Lora Leclair
I have HORRIBLE luck with eye makeup. I looked like a commercial for "dry eye" for nearly a week following my senior prom, and all I used was a little liner and some mascara. Since then, I have found that a "moisturizing" mascara put out by Estee Lauder doesn't irritate...if I feel like dealing with the clumps. Thanks so much for the tip! I'll have to keep an eye out for soft or flexible mascara next time I'm out shipping.
posted: 10.04.2007
Gillian S.
My main quest right now is to find a mascara, non waterproof... hate them! that does not smudge! Sephora had an awesome one, but then changed the formula and now i look like a raccoon come 5pm... any ideas? I only want 1 step and have tried, benefit, lancome, dior, cheap stuff from CVS.
posted: 08.27.2007
Veronica Kavanagh
I totally agree about waterproof mascara, it's awful and it makes my eyes itch in seconds. I'm always looking for good mascara. I prefer brown, not brown/black, so I really have troubles. I'm using Dr. Hauschka's brown mascara and I like it. The brush is decent and it doesn't clump $22. I just bought Boots No. 7 black/brown mascara for sensitive eyes at Target and am curious to see how that is. At $8.99, I'm hoping for a find but if not, at least I haven't spent a fortune on something I'll have to throw out. I must be one of the few whose eyes can't bear the Maybelline Great Lash in the pink and green tube. Instant itch and watery eyes.
posted: 08.19.2007
Carin Kimura
I was recently at a Billy B. seminar, and he recommended Voluminous by L'Oreal. Being a makeup artist, I've tried several mascaras and that one, in my opinion, is not the best. If you are willing to spend the money, Imju Fiberwig is amazing. It's $22.00 @ Sephora. It does contain fibers, but they don't fall like the Fiberiche (by MAC) does. If you are looking for something cheaper, Maybelline's Lash Stylist is wonderful since it uses a comb instead of the traditional wand, and there are no fibers. It runs approx. $6.00.
posted: 05.23.2007
Lori Kate
I am a confirmed mascara junkie. I get the best results from using Fresh mascar as a base, then DiorShow to lengthen and create volume and then I seal it with Blinc - it lasts all day, no racoon eyes. I have VERY sensitive skin/eyes, and haven't had any allergic reactions.
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