A Thirst for Travel: Wake Up and Smell the Coffee

By: Susan MacCallum-Whitcomb (View Profile)

I like my Grande Caffè Lattes as much as the next girl, but whenever I crave a real Java jolt, I take a pass on the daily grind and jump a plane for Costa Rica. Ticos (as locals are known) have been cultivating coffee since the late 19th century, mostly in the Central Valley area; and, thanks to a reliably sunny climate, high altitudes, and rich volcanic soil, it now  ranks among the world’s finest. Given that, it is hardly surprising that tours offered by Costa Rica’s biggest brand—the ubiquitous Café Britt—are popular with the caffeinated crowd.

One version (offered December 16 to April 30 for $19) covers coffee lore through a fun, informative show performed by a professional acting troupe. Another (available year-round for $32) teaches budding baristas everything there is to know about brewing the perfect cup of espresso or cappuccino. Both tours feature a guided stroll around Café Britt’s showcase farm forty minutes north of San José, as well as a visit to the roasting room and a “cupping” demonstration. Ample samples are also part of deal, but so are ample tour buses.

Coffee connoisseurs eager for a more intimate look at traditional manufacturing techniques should plan to stop instead at Costa Rica’s largest privately-owned coffee plantation: the Doka Estate, located an hour northwest of the capital on the slopes of Poás Volcano. Although it’s been designated as a National Historical Monument, Doka remains a working site—not an agricultural museum. Members of the Vargas family, who have been producing premium Arabica coffee here for generations, walk guests step by step through the process on hour-long daily tours ($16).

These start in the fields where ripe red coffee “cherries” are harvested, by hand, three times a year. The pick of the crop is sent on to an antique beneficio (or water-powered mill) where husks are removed, revealing two separate beans. These, in turn, undergo a prolonged soaking before being spread on the estate’s picturesque patios to dry in the sun. Following a final inspection, beans are shipped to roasters in more than eighteen countries. The very best, however, are saved for the Private Reserve brand that is roasted on-site. This is definitely not your Average Joe, and we coffee lovers are invited to drink our fill.

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