I miss the pork burger, I dream of the pork burger. I know, I know, they probably didn’t sell enough of it, but the pork burger was delicious: beautifully cooked, topped with aioli. Still you can’t go wrong with just about anything at this snug little restaurant. The walls are painted red, black tables and photos of famous redheads like Rita Hayworth and Lucille Ball on the walls.
Red Café is the definition of a neighborhood restaurant. It’s clear that the chef is not reaching for the heights of culinary stardom; he just wants to cook good, tasty food for his neighbors. I’ve seen him dropping off his laundry on Saturday mornings so clearly he walks to work.
There is a limited, inexpensive wine list. One of the weak points of the restaurant was the bread but this has been rectified with a nicer country loaf now served with herbed olive oil. There are usually a few specials but mostly the menu has stayed the same. The salads may be clichés but there is a reason for clichés, they are good. The servings here are generous – like the salad of Bibb lettuce with blue cheese and walnuts in mustard vinaigrette; mixed greens with warmed goat cheese, spiced nuts in a whole grain vinaigrette; and a chicory salad with lardons, and a poached egg in a zesty dressing.
Main courses feature a horseradish-encrusted salmon in broth; pork tenderloin; duck breast and confit of duck leg served with kasha and spinach in a red wine cranberry sauce; pecan-crusted chicken breast with Swiss chard and a timbale of rice; rib eye steak; and good beef burger served with terrific French fries or salad. The desserts aren’t homemade except for the chocolate bread pudding served warm with whiskey sauce. The service is uniformly pleasant as if they just stopped by to help out the chef. If you are in the neighborhood stop by, you’ll have good meal at a reasonable price, no scene, no drama, and you won’t leave hungry.
The Red Café, Fifth Ave, Park Slope, 718-798-1100.







