Buckeye Roadhouse
15 Shoreline Highway
Mill Valley, California 94941
415.331.2600

Rating Scale:

• Panties in a twist (unimpressed)
• Panties low-riding (intrigued)
• Panties on the floor (impressed)
• Panties swinging from the chandelier (amazed)

Conditions: Dinner date with my sister. 

Rationale: We always try places that are new to both of us. Buckeye seemed to be our speed—high-end food, low maintenance setting. Plus, the sign (a martini glass with antlers) on the side of the 101 highway has always made me want to pull in.

Long story short: A roadhouse with a busy bar, fancy cocktails, and a dining room setting that’s far from roadside.  

The deal: Make time for a drink or two to experience the cocktails (Guavaritas, Madagascar vanilla drops, Ruby Red Greyhounds) and lively crowd that includes a wide range of types, from Sausalito boat people to cougars to couples to sports fans (the bar TV typically has the game on). Regulars can be spotted taking advantage of ordering the full menu without waiting for a seat in the dining room.

 First-time buckeye-ers however, should gradually motivate their transition from the bar to the dining room, in a mountain hideaway main room setting. Reservations are recommended. A large stone fireplace creates the centerpiece of the room, framed in heavy wood and windows, looking out onto the green space in back. Tables are topped in white with polished wine glasses, aptly prepared for the gourmet comfort menu and impressive wines.

The way to start is with the Oysters Bingo. This signature dish arrives piping hot, in shells full of creamy spinach, cheese, and salty oysters. Salads range from the light “Bolinas greens” with lime, cilantro, and avocado, to the more substantial “wedge,” worth it for those who appreciate the classic combination of blue cheese, hearty bacon, ripe tomatoes, and good old iceberg. Word on the street is that Buckeye’s ribs are unrivaled in Northern California, though our table opted to bypass these in lieu of a steak.  We went with the thinly cut ribeye, which arrived moderately seasoned and left little to remember, save the side dish of brussel sprout gratin, flavored with yet more delicious bacon. The winning dish was the Mongolian spiced pork chop—perfectly cooked, seasoned with an exotic mix of spice that complemented the apple/apricot chutney with every bite. The pork chop side was just as impressive: chive mashed potatoes that were full of herbal, buttery flavor. Desserts are hearty and classic—we topped it all off with a classic hot fudge sundae and a great glass of cabernet.